The Swedish wall with your own hands (photo, step by step)
The Swedish wall with your own hands (photo, step by step)
So: it was during the frosty winter days, sitting at a comfy in a spacious garage-workshop, basking at a homemade stove and remembering about the accursed summer heat, I went with my friend about the fact that it would be nice to get a small sports corner for the younger generation .
Climbing in these your Internet, we concluded that it is rather wasteful to give 200 dollars of American blood money for frank trumpet-colored hack-work. It was decided to do something simple, but by hand, and as they say - with the soul.
As the deductive method has shown, it is easier to make a Swedish wall: there is little need for material, it takes very little space, kids with great pleasure are apes on it, for "a couple of times a day to pull up-shake the press" fits perfectly, and most importantly (as the tests showed) on It is very convenient to hang clothes.
In the local store were bought lumber, namely: pine board 50mm at 120mm six-meter, shanks for shovels beech - on the crossbeams, well, and a few consumables: nazhdachka, a couple of screws and the like.
That's all the necessary goods we brought to the workshop - you can start. What's in my apartment, that the friend has a ceiling height of 2.5 meters: it was decided to make racks of 2.38 m - this is to ensure that the ladder attached to the wall does not in any case rest on the baguette, but below so that between the bottom end and the floor there was about a 6-centimeter gap, so garbage in this place will not accumulate, and with the carpet, if that does not have to be tricky.
Saw logs that were cut to size were driven through an electric fuganok and polished with a band sanding machine (this stage unfortunately did not get into the photo session - hands were occupied, but I think everything is clear). Then, with the help of a hand-held router, a chamfer was removed from all the edges of the future racks - a rounded corner during operation will last well and it's simply beautiful.
After a series of tests, the results showed that the optimal distance between the cross bars of the Swedish wall is 300 mm, which means that 8 rungs are required per ladder.
With the help of a drill bit with a diameter of 35 mm according to the marking we make the seats for the crossbeams, here it is important to observe the same depth of drilling, what would then be the assembly of the Achtung.
As I said, the crown was 35 mm in diameter (well, there was no other), and the cuttings, that is, the crossbeams - 40 mm. I had to dig a little and sharpen the ends of the crossbar with my knife so that my father would go to my mother, but it turned out very dignifiedly and neatly (I would say even succeeded, because many cuttings had a round oval section rather than a round and when they were placed in a 40 mm diameter socket in some places might have appeared ugly cracks).
It seemed to us that the ladder with a width of 100 cm would be just right: we take away the thickness of the posts and add the depth of the crossbar (all in millimeters): 1000- (50 + 50) + (20 + 20) = 940. Means 94 centimeters - the length of the bars.
We cut the crossbeams on the cutter and the knife, remove the extra millimeters from the ends for the landing in the socket of the rack. Grinding the grain 180 first we grind the crossbeams.
Next - we make through holes in the racks for attaching the rails to them: the core drill has a guide stud in the center, which leaves the groove slightly larger than the total depth of the drilled nest, since the recess is located strictly in the center of the nest, through which we drill the legs through, for this we use a 5 mm diameter drill bit.
After the drilling procedure, we carefully treat all the visible parts of the walls of the future wall with fine granularity 240, we especially grind the crossbeams - the slightest burr on them can become a potential splinter in the palm of your hand.
We begin to assemble the structure: glue the mounting nests on one rack (to exclude the rotation of the crossbar when interacting with it with a particularly strong primatike), insert the crossbeams in them, then drill the crossbeams through the stand with a long 4-millimeter drill and, of course, screw long screws into the finished holes.
The second side is a bit more complicated: just like in the first case, we glue the landing nests on the second rack, and placing the first rack with the beams already fastened to the table (with the side where the screws of the screws are visible), we mount the second post on the top and combine the landing nests with the corresponding ones ends of the crossbeams.
In principle, we did it together for twenty minutes, the three of them would have been easier, and all because of the fact that the cross bars hardly went into the rack and, frankly, at some point had to use a sledge hammer. Having driven the ends of the crossbeams into the second rack we drill them from this side and tighten the screws.
Now it's time to create beauty: we cover our ladder with impregnation for wood zip guard golden oak and after a day we varnish. After drying, the finished wall is taken home and installed.
For installation we use ten-centimeter pieces of stainless strip with a width of 25 mm and a thickness of 4 mm. In the segments we make three holes: through the central one we attach them to the rear side of the racks, and through the end we fix the entire structure to the wall with the help of anchors. We found that such fastenings were enough.
Well, the Swedish wall in its place and the kids are already happily crouching on the top, and we plan to manufacture metal bars on which the rope and rings will be fastened.
In the basement of the garage were found suitable smooth and most importantly not rusty pipes 3/4 inches in diameter. The pipes were cleaned and polished, and "ears" were welded to their ends, one eye transversely to the end of the pipe, and the other in the longitudinal plane, but not to the end but to the surface of the circle.
In the holes drilled holes for fasteners. One end of the crossbar is attached through the eyelet to the stand of the Swedish wall by means of a powerful screw with a hexagon head.
The opposite side is fixed by means of an anchor to a concrete crossbar passing through the ceiling of the corridor, with the fixing in this place there were small difficulties: the wiring detector showed the presence of this just in the place where it was supposed to drill an anchor hole: it was necessary to make a hole in the eye of the crossbar slightly higher and so bypass the wire.
Despite unexpected obstacles, everything turned out perfectly and the metal bars were securely fixed, and the rope and rings took their places and now the little guy is unlimited in this sporting corner in full.
For those who are interested in voice bThis event's budget:
- Board six-meter 120 to 50 - 100 hryvnia
- Beech beech 8 pieces of 11 hryvnia - 88 hryvnias
- Fixing various - 30 hryvnias
- Consumables - 30 UAH
- Old pipes - free of charge
- Rope and Rings - 150 UAH
- Experience is priceless
- Or about 1600 rubles